Monsoon Ragas – 4 Hyderabad’s Very Own Monsoon Festival: Bonalu
Religion World. Hyderabad is metropolitan city busting with activity, be it IT industry or the entertainment industry the city is full of buzz always. Modernism is dominating at every instance and at every corner of the most happening city. Just over a fortnight after the monsoons advents into Kerala, Hyderabad receives its first rainfall and from then for fourth months the city will witness good rainfall. Even as the city gets drenched in the rain, during Ashada masam, which usually falls in July-August the air is filled with the drum beats and that is the city very own festival called Bonalu.
Bonalu
Every Sunday of the month-long festival, has an earmarked ‘Mahankali Jatara’ to specific temples of the goddess: the first sunday is an offering at the ancient Jagadamba temple inside Golconda fort; the second Sunday sees a similar procession and celebrations at the Mahankali temple in Secunderabad and Yellamma temple at Balkampet; the third Sunday is for Pochamma and Katta Maisamma temple, Chikalguda, and the Lal Darwaza temple in Old City, near Charminar. The fourth Sunday is a round-up.
This year, Sundays on 7, 14, 21 and 28 July will see the jataras or colorful processions, with hundreds of women dressed in colorful silks and finery, carrying steel and earthen Bonams (corrupt version of ‘Bhojanam’, meaning meal; ‘Bonalu’ in plural) on their heads to offer to the goddess Kali.
The goddess is worshiped in different forms like Pedamma, Mysamma, Mahankali and Yellama. Songs like Lashkar Bonalu, Bangaru Maisamma, Dhumu Dhuma and Gali Gali Tirugu sung to appease Goddess Kali rent the air.
Popular belief is that Bonalu came into vogue because of the water-borne disease; cholera was vast in Hyderabad city in early 1800. Due to rains and water of Musi River getting polluted by rain waters, cholera was rampant during the start of monsoons. So it is believed that to wade away cholera in the city, Bonalu was gifted to goddess.
History
The origin of this Bonalu festival traces back to the 17th Century and is connected with the “Regimental Bazaar” and the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad.
In the year 1833, severe plague disease bust out in the 2 cities, and this took away the lives of many people. The Plague started becoming dangerous then originated the belief that the Plague was a curse by the Mother Goddess – Mahakali and she was riled(angered) at the locals.
It is considered that Mahakali destroys the disease (illness) and then, the locals returned to the city & installed an idol of the goddess Mahakali, which was followed by the gift of Bonalu to her. Hence, from then, this had turned out to be a culture, which is still being pursued by all the people belonging to Telangana. People started offering their prayers and food (Bhojanalu- Bonalu) to please the goddess so she would rid them of the disease and illness.
There are several beliefs around Bonalu, and one of them is that the goddess visits her maternal home this month. Women are often considered as possessing the spirit of the mother goddess at this time, and their feet are washed before they enter the temple to pacify the aggressive spirit.
Married girls are invited to their parents’ house for one week, where they together offer Bonam to the goddess in that area; the next week, the ritual would be held in her in-laws’ place, in another locality, to the goddess there. This tradition of collective praying and sharing of fortunes extends across areas and across weeks.
Food & Festivities
Bonam means Bhojanam, so it directly indicates that food – in the form of naivedyam and prasadam – plays a key role in the festival. ‘Bonams’ are pots filled with a curd-jaggery-rice mixture, and decorated with turmeric, neem leaves, vermillion and a lamp burning on top. Saris and bangles are often offered along with the Bonam. Devotees also offer a paper structure supported by bamboo sticks – called ‘Thotella’ – at the temple. This offering is a thanksgiving – importantly, it is a prayer for safekeeping, good monsoons, bountiful crop, and protection from epidemics and calamities.
Potharaju
Potharajus are integral feature of Bonalu festival and without their dance, performance and moving around the streets of Hyderabad Bonalu is never complete. The women are accompanied by ferocious looking men, dressed in tight, small dhotis, painted in turmeric all over, and wearing anklet bells and garlands – the “Potharajus”.
The latter, brothers of the goddess who are worshipped as “protectors of dharma”, dance to the drums and lash their whips dramatically. The procession has an air of excitement and energy, with special songs and dancing forming a mandatory part. The processions end at the temples, which have been freshly painted, lit up and decorated with flowers for the festival.
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